About a week ago we had the opportunity to see a sumo tournament. Normally a "basho" or tournament is a 15 day event but this was a special kind of single elimination tournament in one afternoon. We took the train and got to the stadium about 2pm. There were a few wrestlers taking pictures out front but we hesitated to ask them for a picture and missed our chance. We took this picture instead:
Monday, February 23, 2009
Sumo!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Hokkaido in Winter
Hey Everyone! A couple of weeks ago we took a trip to the northern island of Japan called Hokkaido. It was home to the Ainu people and the Japanese have been there about 150 years. The biggest city is Sapporo and they have a huge Snow Festival every year. We joined a ski tour with the intention to ski a few days and sight see a fee days but Vanessa's injured foot kept her from skiing. (It's healing slowly but there is definite improvement after a few visits to the acupuncturist.)
We left our home about 4am and joined the others on the tour for a bus trip to Haneda airport. We caught the 7am flight on All Nippon airways. Our plane was the Pokeman plane. The interior had Pokemon characters on the seats and dishes, and the outside of the plane was painted with Pokemon characters!
We then headed to our hotel, the Keio Plaza in the center of Sapporo. It was a very nice hotel and included a huge breakfast buffet every morning. They had both Japanese breakfast food and Western food. Vanessa was very adventurous and even tried the salted fish guts over steamed white rice. She said it was pretty good!
The next day after breakfast we got on a bus and headed to the ski resort Rusutsu. Vanessa stayed in the lobby and got a great seat in a coffee shop with a huge picture window. Maddie and I skied. It was snowing pretty heavily and sometimes it was hard to see. We had a great time and Madeleine picked up her skiing right where she left off. She didn't have any trouble navigating the mountain just behind the resort.
Maddie and a friend collapsed after a few ski runs.
Troy coming back from the slopes. The snow stuck to my face. My beard isn't quite that white yet! Vanessa didn't recognize me at first when I walked in the door.
The next day we went to the town of Otaru. This is a picturesque port city. We went to an indoor ice house (complete with slide), had a very nice sushi dinner, visited a glass making factory, music box museum and store, and a kaleidoscope store. Maddie made her own kaleidoscope! We also had some ice cream. We loved the milk and ice cream in Hokkaido. They are famous for happy cows. The dairy was so extremely rich and milky we couldn't help ourselves and enjoyed it often. Toward the end of the day we went to a small museum dedicated to the city. Outside of the museum they had built a small hill so kids could try out the old sleds and snow rickshaws. (OK, kids of all ages....) Finally, we found a small, local restaurant. There were only about 8 seats in the whole place. The owner was a young chef who worked in a large hotel. He cooked some of the most delicious pasta we have ever had. I even tried some of the local Otaru wine. We took the train back to Sapporo since the tour bus had left hours earlier. We loved Otaru!
The next day we went to the ski resort in Kiroro. Since Vanessa couldn't ski, we decided to play in the snow. They had this kids area that had a slope for sledding, an intertube slide and other play areas. The first thing Maddie did was take a ride on an inflated boat that was pulled around a course by a snow mobile. Then we all went sledding and had a really good time. Then we discovered the tube slide. I think this was Maddie's favorite. The adults tired out but Maddie and a friend kept at it.
It was snowing pretty heavily but that only made it more fun.
Maddie and her friend played in the snow. They made a snow fort and cached snow balls. I went to check on them and got bombarded!
It was finally time to go so the girls reluctantly came back. We had a nice lunch in the resort lobby and then we headed over to the onsen (Japanese baths.) Vanessa and Madeleine went to the women's side and I went alone to the men's. We often go to the onsen but there is something special about going when it is snowing. The baths were great. They had several inside but the real treat was the one outside. I went to the sauna and stayed as long as I could stand it. After stepping out of the sauna I went to the outside pool. The pool was really beautiful and made from rocks. There were large rocks along the perimeter and the floor had smaller ones. In the center was a cluster of rocks with a fountain of hot water issuing from the center. Half of the pool was covered and half was open. Along the edge of the outside part the snow was piled six or seven feet high. The view beyond the bath was the side of the snow covered mountain and trees. I stood at the edge of the pool and used a small bucket to rinse myself. Then I eased into the pool. The water was nice and hot! After acclimating to the hot water I went over to the uncovered area. The snowfall was heavy. My skin was steaming up and melting the snow as it landed on my skin. After a very relaxing soak, I climbed up on one of the rocks and sat there letting the snow fall on me. It was incredible!
That night the entire tour group went out to dinner. It was at the old Sapporo brewery and it was a kind of all you can eat deal where you cook your food at the table. We had all you could eat and drink (including cold beer) for 90 minutes. It was a smoky, boisterous time that we really enjoyed. (By the way, when we first arrived, they had plastic bags at the table. Before the cooking began, everyone put their coats and hats in the bags so they didn't get smoky and smell of cooked meat and vegetables.) It was really fun cooking at the table and several times during the meal we all did the wave from one end of the room to the other.
The restaurant (and the style of cooking) was called Ghengis Khan.
After the dinner, the bus dropped us off at the park in Sapporo where the Snow festival is held. The festival had not started yet but most of the large sculptures were completed.
The park is a long narrow one with the tower at one end. We started there and walked the length of it. There were countless snow sculptures along the way. Some were the size of a typical statue and others were larger than a house.


This one above was really big. It was amazingly detailed. To understand the size of it, I am standing near it and looking up at it. It was at least the size of a two story house, if not bigger!
The next day, which was our last, we went to the Winter Sports Museum. It is a very fun, interactive museum on the grounds of the ski jump site of the Sapporo Winter Olympics back in 1972.
Madeleine did great on the ski jump simulator. She jumped a lot farther than I did!
The beautiful Vanessa and Madeleine at the bottom of the ski jump.
We took a ski lift up to the top of the ski jump. It was really beautiful up there. It had snowed every day we were there except this last day. The clear skies gave us a beautiful view from the top!

An amazing view from the top of the ski jump. What courage it must take to jump off of this thing!
Later that day we went to lunch in another area of Sapporo. Here I am in front of the beer and whiskey signs. (Of course!) They also had some ice sculpures. Click on the photo below and check out the fish and crab embedded in the ice.
After lunch we went back to the hotel and caught the busses back to the airport in Chitose and flew back to Tokyo. It was a really great trip.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Skiing in Shiga Kogen
Last weekend we celebrated MLK weekend by taking our first ski trip since arriving back in Japan. We went to the Nagano area, which was the location of the 1998 winter Olympics. The resort we stayed at is called Shiga Kogen. It is a huge area with many, many ski runs. We left our house Friday night (Saturday morning) at 1am and joined the Kanto Ski Club on a bus. After driving all night we arrived at our hotel at 730am and checked into our room. It was a Japanese style hotel so our room was tatami mat with futons on the floor. There was a small bathroom with a toilet. There was not a shower or bathtub in the room but there was an onsen (Japanese hot bath) on the lobby floor. The view outside the window was beautiful. The hotel was in the heart of the Shiga Kogen area and we could walk to the ski lifts. After checking into our room we had breakfast in the hotel. The breakfast was great with a mix of western style (eggs, sausage, hash browns) and Japanese (miso soup, rice, smoked fish, seaweed, natto beans) so there was something for everyone. Our hotel was right on the mountain and we were able to take a short walk to the ski lifts. The mountain directly behind us had green (beginner) slopes so we went directly to it. This was Madeleine's first time to ski so Vanessa and I did our best to teach her how to snow plow. She did great. After spending all morning teaching Madeleine we were all exhausted so we went back to the hotel for lunch. We had ramen noodles which are great on a cold day! After lunch we went back out and explored the area around the hotel. We had a fun time playing in the snow. The weather was great the whole time we were there. Lots of snow on the ground and it snowed every day so we had lots of fresh powder. After a wonderful dinner, we slept well that night. The next day we headed back out after breakfast. Madeleine showed great improvement so we tackled another mountain. She was a little intimidated by some of the steep slopes but by the end of the day she was starting to turn pretty well and we all had fun. We did what we called "family ski time" where we held hands with Maddie in the middle and skied together. We had a few "family falls" but overall did some pretty good skiing. The last day, we stayed on the mountain behind our hotel. Madeleine was really skiing well at this point and was pretty much on her own. At the top of the lift, the run is fairly steep but Maddie decided she would go it alone. She headed down the hill and got going very fast. She ended up turning but was going so fast she got scared and couldn't slow down. She managed to turn uphill and head to a snow bank where she finally fell down. It freaked her out a little but I'm proud to say that she "got back on the horse" and it wasn't long before she was back in fine form. We went up and down that mountain more times that I can remember! In the afternoon we loaded up our gear, checked out of the hotel and got back on the bus. We returned home about 10pm. Upon reflection, Vanessa and I got our snow legs back after a ten year hiatus of skiing and Madeleine learned how to ski so it was a really great trip. We loved the snow and look forward to our next ski trip at the end of the month. Enjoy the pictures!
View from our hotel room.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Happy New Year (of the Cow or Ox)
Happy 2009 Everyone!
I'm a little late in writing this but we hope everyone had a great New Year celebration. We went to a New Year's party at a friend's house off base. They recently moved into a Japanese style home right along the Sagamigawa river. It was a small gathering but very nice with lots of food and drink. We counted down the year and celebrated with a kiss at midnight. Maddie stayed up for the first time to celebrate with us! Then, we bundled up (it was very cold) and walked to a nearby shrine. It was a beautiful one on top of a little hill. We walked up the steps to the shrine and said a prayer for the coming year and rang a large bell. Then we were given some hot, sweet sake called amazake that is almost like a thin gruel. (That doesn't sound very appetizing but I don't know another way of describing it. It is a sweet drink and very good on a cold night!) We purchased a ceremonial arrow but I haven't researched what the significance is yet. We stayed at our friend's house that night. I woke up before sunrise and sat at the window. The sun came up and highlighted the nearby mountains. It was a beautiful way to start the year. The next weekend we went back to our friend's house to put our daruma in the fire. I'll explain. The Japanese have a red, paper mache figure that has large, empty spots for the eyes, called a Daruma. Every year, you make a wish, set a goal, etc. and color in one of the eyes. Then, during the year if your wish, goal, etc. comes true, you color in the other eye. During the new year time, they have these bon fires and you throw the Daruma into the fire. The whole process then starts again. We took our Daruma to one of these fires and Maddie threw it in. Our wish had been that our family stay healthy!
This fire had been much bigger when it was first started but we were a little late in getting there. The people gathered around were drinking sake and roasting mochi. (More on Mochi later in the blog.)
Later that day we went to Camp Zama where Madeleine and Vanessa participated in Kakizome. This is the tradition of writing calligraphy at the beginning of the year. Maddie had also done this when she first went back to school. The Japanese calligraphy teacher (sensei) was very impressed with Madeleine's skill, especially when she wrote the one she had memorized from school. They put it on a special kind of paper for her and Vanessa hung it in our house. In the picture above, Madeleine and Vanessa are writing the kanji for "lucky" and later wrote "power."

The next day we were in a nearby area called Machida. We like to go there for shopping, eating and walking around. We stumbled upon a crowd of people listening to drummers and making mochi. Mochi is basically steamed white rice that is pounded until it is a sticky consistancy. You can then add different ingredients to it for flavoring. It takes a lot of pounding using a large wooden mallet and wooden bowl. One person swings the mallet and the other reaches in and moves the rice around so that it all gets evenly pounded. It is quite dangerous for the one moving the rice! They saw Madeleine in the crowd and invited her up to take a few swings. She said the mallet was pretty heavy.
I'm a little late in writing this but we hope everyone had a great New Year celebration. We went to a New Year's party at a friend's house off base. They recently moved into a Japanese style home right along the Sagamigawa river. It was a small gathering but very nice with lots of food and drink. We counted down the year and celebrated with a kiss at midnight. Maddie stayed up for the first time to celebrate with us! Then, we bundled up (it was very cold) and walked to a nearby shrine. It was a beautiful one on top of a little hill. We walked up the steps to the shrine and said a prayer for the coming year and rang a large bell. Then we were given some hot, sweet sake called amazake that is almost like a thin gruel. (That doesn't sound very appetizing but I don't know another way of describing it. It is a sweet drink and very good on a cold night!) We purchased a ceremonial arrow but I haven't researched what the significance is yet. We stayed at our friend's house that night. I woke up before sunrise and sat at the window. The sun came up and highlighted the nearby mountains. It was a beautiful way to start the year. The next weekend we went back to our friend's house to put our daruma in the fire. I'll explain. The Japanese have a red, paper mache figure that has large, empty spots for the eyes, called a Daruma. Every year, you make a wish, set a goal, etc. and color in one of the eyes. Then, during the year if your wish, goal, etc. comes true, you color in the other eye. During the new year time, they have these bon fires and you throw the Daruma into the fire. The whole process then starts again. We took our Daruma to one of these fires and Maddie threw it in. Our wish had been that our family stay healthy!
The next day we were in a nearby area called Machida. We like to go there for shopping, eating and walking around. We stumbled upon a crowd of people listening to drummers and making mochi. Mochi is basically steamed white rice that is pounded until it is a sticky consistancy. You can then add different ingredients to it for flavoring. It takes a lot of pounding using a large wooden mallet and wooden bowl. One person swings the mallet and the other reaches in and moves the rice around so that it all gets evenly pounded. It is quite dangerous for the one moving the rice! They saw Madeleine in the crowd and invited her up to take a few swings. She said the mallet was pretty heavy.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Happy Christmas Time
It is a very nice place to visit on a day trip. We enjoyed the views from the upper floors. We had a picnic on the grounds. They also have some animals on the grounds. Maddie really liked the Japanese Macaque monkeys (also called snow monkeys.) These are the same type that like to sit in the hot springs during winter. Here is a link for more info or simply Google them: http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/frameset.html Click on the word LIVECAM and you may catch them in action.
She also liked the Indian elephant. She was about 65 years old and was very friendly. She would come out of her little house and lift one of her front legs for the crowd. Later, we got to see them feed her. She like cabbage the best. Maddie really enjoyed spending time with her.
From the castle, we watched the sun set behind the mountains and then made our way back home. Another fine day in Japan.
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